Thursday, November 22, 2007

Rolex Milgauss


If you take a mechanical watch into a strong magnetic field, some of the parts in the movement become magnetized which causes problems; typically the watch will start to run quite fast and require demagnetization. The hairspring, made of an alloy called Nivarox, is particularly susceptible. A watch is normally considered "antimagnetic" (DIN 8309) if it can ignore 4,800 A/m. This works out to about 60 gauss, or 6% of what the new Rolex is rated for. Rolex achieved the superior rating of the Milgauss by encasing the movement in soft iron, which is known as a Faraday cage. They also introduced a new hairspring material, Parachrom-Blu, which is unaffected by magnetism. Quite an achievement!
The Milgauss model has an interesting history. It was introduced in 1954 for people who worked in environments with strong magnetic fields: power plants, research labs, etc. As you might suspect, that's a pretty small market, further crowded by the IWC Ingenieur, the Patek Philippe Amagnetic, and the Omega Railmaster, all of which had similar magnetic resistance. The Milgauss was the slowest seller in the Rolex lineup, and was sold for about 20 years before being removed from their catalog.
The Milgauss comes in the new, slightly larger case size of 40mm, with the 3131 movement. There are white and black dial versions available, both with a nifty and surprisingly modern lightning shaped second hand and 'ROLEXROLEXROLEX' around the face on the chapter ring. (As Christian noted, for better or worse, the new models are more heavily branded than their predecessors.) One difference between the two versions is that the black dial has a sapphire crystal that is slightly green at an angle, as you can see from the image gallery on their site. from.http://www.watchreport.com/2007/05/index.html

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Introducing Ozzioni Watches


I'm probably best known for my affinity for high-tech watches. Although I love all well made timepieces, innovation from brands like Casio, Suunto, Tissot and Seiko are most likely to catch my eye. As long as it's full of features and built like a tank, I don't care how big and heavy it is, and I usually don't care how it looks.
But what do I wear on my wrist on those very few occasions when I'm forced to put on something other than jeans and a T-shirt? I have a Rolex GMT Master II which I wear quite often, but just because it's a Rolex doesn't mean it's appropriate for formal dress. In fact, I think it goes better with jeans than it would a suit. Thanks to a big box I received from a company called Ozzioni the other day, however, I now have a couple of nice formal options.
Ozzioni is a relatively new brand -- so new that their site is still under construction (although you can download a PDF catalog), and the domain name itself has only been registered for a little over a year. The two watches I received from them seem reasonably well made, and are definitely attractive. I usually leave aesthetics testing up to my wife since I don't have an overly developed sense of style, and nine times out of ten, she refers to my watches as "interesting" or "not too bad". (In wife-speak, that's a polite way of saying she doesn't care for them.) When I showed her the two Ozzionis, however, she was quite impressed. So impressed, in fact, she immediately adopted one for herself (oversized watches are very fashionable on women right now, apparently). The other, however, I'm keeping for myself. from.http://www.watchreport.com/2006/01/introducing_ozz.html

Sunday, September 23, 2007

The Breitling Emergency


The Breitling Emergency has got to be one of the most unique watches I've ever seen. Breitling primarily makes watches for aviation professionals, and therefore outfits them with appropriate functionality like chronographs, circular slide rules, multiple time zones, etc. But these are all features designed to keep you in the air, on course, and on time. What about a feature designed to offer pilots and crew members assistance when they encounter the unexpected? That's where the Breitling Emergency comes in.
The most salient feature of the Breitling Emergency is its ability to broadcast an emergency distress signal. Unscrew the protective cap on the right side of the case, fully extend the antenna, and the Breitling Emergency will broadcast on the 121.5 MHz aircraft emergency frequency for a full 48 hours. The range of the transmission is about 100 miles, which seems reasonably impressive for a watch. An interesting technique might be to outfit an entire crew with these watches, then in the event of an emergency, spread out to create a combined coverage area of several hundred miles.
Be careful when showing the Breitling Emergency to your friends, however. Apparently, the FAA will slap you with a $15,000 fine if you broadcast a false distress call which will probably result in you having to sell your expensive watch. from.http://www.watchreport.com/2007/01/index.html

Saturday, August 25, 2007

New Rolex Yacht-Master II


At BaselWorld 2007, Rolex announced a new sports watch for yachtsmen: the Rolex Yacht-Master II. When Rolex releases a sequel to an existing model, you can always expect to see impressive new functionality. Rolex made significant changes to the GMT Master movement between the original GMT Master, and the GMT Master II, the latter allowing the hour hand and the 24-hour hand to be set independently. Likewise, the Explorer II changed dramatically from the original Explorer, adopting the same movement as the GMT Master II which added a 24-hour hand and date. And now the Yacht-Master II represents another extremely important step in Rolex evolution. from.http://www.watchreport.com/watch_news/index.html

Monday, August 13, 2007

Hamilton Men's Khaki X-Wind watch


A rugged, functional timepiece from Hamilton's X-Wind collection- features a silver dial with silver numeral markers, two black chronograph subdials and a third subdial in a lighter silver. Automatic 7750 movement controls the chronograph movement with a day and date display, and three-hand movement with luminous accents. The Hamilton X-Wind features three screw-down crowns and two push-buttons. One crown is for setting the time, the day, and the date, the other is for adjusting the upper interior rotating bezel and another one for rotating the lower interior rotating bezel, these interior bezels can be used to calculate several needed flight calculations such as wind speed and aircraft speed. The dial is presented by a stainless steel case with a black rubber strap. from.http://www.ewatches.com/Hamilton/H77626353.html

Thursday, August 2, 2007

Seiko


The 2006 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève prize for electronic watches winner Seiko has finally released its first Spectrum Electronic Ink watches. Sadly, both watches are designed only for ladies with bracelet-like jewelery design. These new bracelet watches are using the high contrast e-ink technology and featuring two display modes. The ‘efficiency’ mode gives the display is informative and easy to read whereas the ‘mystery’ mode makes the whole bracelet watch more animated, imaginative, and evocative. from.http://www.ilovereview.com/

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Walkie Talkie Watches


These Walkie Talkie Watches are quite literally the handiest pair of walkie talkies around. Not only do the watches have a full clock function, but they're also professional PMR (a slightly easier way of saying Private Mobile Radio-communicators) watches. In fact they are of such high quality that they were sported by the Norwegian Winter Olympic team during last year's Winter Olympics - and if anyone should know about tough communication it's the Norwegians - you try saying "hjelp, jeg vet ikke hvor jeg er" in a high wind and being understood.
The watch design, 3km range and VOX (Voice Activated Operation - oh how they love acronyms) make these walkie talkies ideal for active souls who enjoy hiking, skiing and staying in touch for free when on the move. They have eight channels and 38 sub codes per channel giving you over 300 channel combinations for private conversation. To top that all off, communication is free as there is no licence required. from.http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/walkie-talkie-watches/index.html

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Tag Heuer

Issued in a limited edition of 500, this model follows on from the Calibre 360 Concept Chronograph that has already earned the brand considerable success. It is basically a mechanical chronograph capable of measuring and displaying time to within 1/100th of a second. Specially designed for collectors, this limited edition model is rendered even more precious by the pink gold of its case, enhanced by the guilloché chocolate brown dial. Brown alligator leather strap with pink gold folding clasp. Also comes in two other limited series of 100 in white gold and 360 in steel. from.http://www.swiss-watchmaking-year.com/watches/index.cfm

Saturday, June 30, 2007

Frédérique Constant


This gentle watch pervaded by the theme of hearts was launched to coincide with the inauguration of the new Frédérique Constant headquarters in Plan-les-Louates. With its double heart-shaped opening, its mother-of-pearl dial, its cabochon-cut diamond hour-markers and its gem-set bezel, it is brimming over with charm. The case is crafted from gold-plated steel and the alligator leather strap is fitted with a folding clasp. from.http://www.swiss-watchmaking-year.com/watches/index.cfm

Sunday, June 17, 2007

Cadence™ T1


The Cadence Wristrate Watch from NK is the latest in stroke rate and performance monitors. A full-featured digital sports watch, it can also be quickly and easily strapped onto a sculling or sweep oar for wireless stroke rate measurement. The patented tilt-switch technology calculates stroke rate based on the feathering interval. There are no wires to install, making the Cadence an especially great tool for rowers who use different boats. For the coach or spectator, the Cadence offers a large, dedicated rate button right on the face, allowing easy rate measurement at any time. It's even possible to take rates with one hand by simulating the feathering motion with the watch hand - great when driving a launch. Add-in a 100-hour, 99-split chronograph, alarm, and smart auto-adjusting day/date calendar, and you have the complete rower's timepiece. from.http://www.nkhome.com/rowing/cadencet1.html

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Tag Heuer


Following on from the recent success of its chronographs endowed with great technical sophistication and astonishing precision, TAG Heuer is pursuing its development with several new launches including this daring model. Both mechanical and digital by nature, the Monaco Sixty Nine combines the classic Monaco, equipped with a square dial and case and a hand-wound movement, along with an ultra-modern digital quartz movement characteristic of the Microtimer model and already presented in 2002. The result is a reversible mechanical and digital watch, equipped with a chronograph function accurate to within 1/1000th of a second. The ingenious pivoting system called for eleven rubber joints that also guarantee the water resistance of the two-part case. from.http://www.swiss-watchmaking-year.com/watches/index.cfm

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Jaquet-Droz


Embodying the Jaquet Droz signature, time loses itself in the infinite space of the luminous grand feu enamelled ivory-coloured dial. The slender blued steel hands count off the minutes in the centre, hours at 3 o’clock, seconds at 6 o’clock, 24 hours at 9 o’clock and the date at 12 o’clock. The case is in 18-carat white gold, as is the pin buckle securing the black alligator leather strap. This line stems from the Hommage La Chaux-de-Fonds 1738 collection, reminding connoisseurs that it was in this city that the founder of the Manufacture, Pierre Jaquet Droz, developed the automatons that were to carry his reputation well beyond Swiss borders. from.http://www.swiss-watchmaking-year.com/watches/index.cfm

Sunday, May 13, 2007

Martin Braun


The deep black beauty of onyx makes this watch a precious setting for a complication movement such as those to which Martin Braun has accustomed us, particularly in the EOS series to which this timepiece belongs. Notos was indeed the son of Eos in Greek mythology. The elegant arrangement of the various dial displays ensures excellent readability of the functions: hour, minute, seconds, equation of time between 1 o’clock and 4 o’clock, date at 12 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock. Between 7 and 9 o’clock, Martin Braun has provided space for a complication he particularly cherishes: the indication of the declination, a function he describes as “showing which line of latitude the sun is currently found on at noon”. Available in stainless steel, 18-carat gold and 950 platinum versions. Water-resistant to 30 metres thanks to the screwed-down sapphire crystal exhibition case-back secured by eight screws. from.http://www.swiss-watchmaking-year.com/watches/index.cfm

Thursday, May 3, 2007

TAG Heuer.Monaco

Monaco. A prestigious circuit whose original track is a very special experience for drivers. In 1969, in honor of this unique Grand Prix, TAG Heuer launched a chronograph with a new design. Its water-resistant square case - the first in watchmaking history - houses the Chronomatic, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement with a microrotor. Steve McQueen had an empathy for this audacious, rebellious watch and in 1970 chose to wear it in the film “Le Mans”, dedicated to motor racing. The Monaco has lost none of its originality and still embodies the avant-garde spirit that inspires TAG Heuer.from.http://www.tagheuer.com/the-collection/monaco/index.lbl?lang=en

Saturday, April 21, 2007

LONGINES AUTOMATIC

This vintage, 14k., solid gold, 1950's LONGINES AUTOMATIC is a true classic! The substantial, 35mm. across (12.5mm. thick including crystal) 14k. solid, yellow gold case with steel screw retention ring is shimmering and perfect! The case features a ribbed edge, recessed crown and down turned lugs... nice and heavy...lots of gold here... quite valuable on its' own with gold prices as high as they are, but priced the same as if gold were $500 oz! The gold dial with raised markers is textured, adding more visual appeal to this fine LONGINES! The rotor, automatic winding LONGINES movement was just cleaned and overhauled...keeping precise time! We have installed a beautiful, brown, genuine lizard (expensive) band that really sets off the vintage look! This classic and understated solid gold LONGINES looks fantastic ... a great size even for a large wrist from.http://www.watchestobuy.com/newpage4.htm

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL

This OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL dates to 1969 and is special! Notice the gold OMEGA crown and gold crystal retention ring. The gold is ideal for the retention ring to avoid expansion and contraction during temperature changes. These watches are mentioned in many OMEGA reference guides and listed as "special". The caliber 861 manual winding movement is shiny and spotless after a recent cleaning and overhaul...and of course all functions operate like silk! The 40x47mm. stainless steel case is pristine. and shimmering! The original dial is extremely nice! This watch is a real fine example of a "special" 1969 OMEGA from.http://www.watchestobuy.com/newpage6.htm

Friday, March 30, 2007

Heuer Chronograph


1972 - All Original Heuer Monaco #73633B.... Original blue colored dial with white registers is perfect. All Steel case is in EXCELLENT condition. Case size (40 x 14 x 45mm). Quad+ signed. Recently serviced 17 jewel Valjoux cal.7736 manual wind chronograph. Chronograph features function properly. Sports original Heuer Monaco steel bracelet. RARE BLUE WHITE DIAL!! ... MOST SOUGHT COLOR ... SAME COLOR AS THE STEVE MCQUEEN MODEL!from.http://coolvintagewatches.com/Cool/Cool_Vintage_Watches.htm

Sunday, March 18, 2007

Omega Seamaster 300

This is a great watch. I've since given it to my brother-in-law to be. He really likes it. Vintage Omega Seamaster 300. Original case, movement and bezel/insert. Restoration involved a complete movement overhaul by a c.m.w/Omega specialist, and sourcing of dial from New Zealand. The crystal is NOS Omega, and it's fitted with new Omega hands, Luminova type, obtained from an Australian seller, I believe. Silver date wheel was replaced with black.Watch is fitted here on a steel Omega Speedmaster bracelet. The endpieces needed a little filing to get them to fit the case. The Omega dial is inky-black. T SWISS MADE T is positioned above index. The tritium is no longer of sufficient radioactivity, on both dial and bezel insert, to provide any luminescence, but both are aged similarly. The bezel insert is in fine shape. from.http://alanwatch.homestead.com/seamaster300.html

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Vintage Patek Philippe screwback automatic ref. 3425

This vintage automatic Patek Philippe wrist watch, reference 3425, features a solid 18 karat gold two-piece case with a solid gold screw down case back.

Collectors know how prized screw back automatic Pateks have become in the marketplace. Removing the case back reveals one of the finest automatic movements ever made by Patek Philippe, the 37 jewel, sub seconds automatic Calibre 27-460. This powerhouse of a movement is adjusted to 5 positions as well as heat, cold and isochronism. The balance is a shock-resisting, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance-spring and is wound by a massive 18K gold rotor that carries so much mass that the slightest movement sends the rotor whizzing around in the case.

The dial is all original and is in excellent condition.

The watch measures 35 mm wide and 39 mm long.

This is the complete Vintage collectible, durable, elegant and a rock solid investment.from.http://www.yorktime.com/search?cid=25:sku=284

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Longines watch from 1957


A vintage Longines wrist watch with one of the nicest manual movements used during the 1940’s and 50’s.
The solid stainless steel case has a very long profile with its extended lugs. The case has been detailed and is in excellent condition.
The restored satin silver dial is highlighted by gold coloured arrowhead hour markers that are replaced with stylized Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock markers in what has been popularized by the Rolex Explorer.
The watch also features a detailed sub-seconds chapter in the bottom half of the dial. The 17 jewel Longines manual wind caliber 12.68Z movement was just serviced and is keeping great time. The 10,400,xxx serial number on the movement roughly dates the watch to 1957.
Overall a lovely and durable vintage watch that has all the styling cues people look for in a vintage piece, yet tough enough to wear everyday. from.http://www.yorktime.com/search?cid=21:sku=129

Omega 1944 - 1945

This is a very nice vintage Omega watch from the 1940s. Manual wind, center seconds, chronometer grade 16 jewel movement. It's from 1944 or 1945, based on its movement number. Movement caliber is 30SCT2-16, a 16 jewel indirect central seconds type.
It's a bit of a mysterious watch. Some of these have "US Army" issue markings on the back, but others do not. It seems like it was a civilian watch, for ordinary people, but that the US Army bought some and stamped the back.The watch is large, measuring 36 mm across, which is especially large for that era, when wrist watches were often smaller. It runs very well, keeping time to about 5 seconds per day. Winds, sets very smoothly.
The dial is strange. The hour numbers have an 'exploding' or 'eccentric' appearance, which looks a bit crazy. I like it. My friend Bill in Vancouver calls this dial 'Modernist, almost Conructivist.'
The dial on most of these models has undergone aging. You can see these little black colonies dotting the surface of the dial, across a background of light amber dial color. These usually had some sort of varnish or coating over the dial, and I believe this is what has yellowed slightly. It has a nice vintage patina to it which I like. More pictures below of this fine Omega. from.http://alanwatch.homestead.com/omega48.html

Rolex Explorer ref 1016


This is probably my favorite watch, of all the ones I own.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer, 1969.
Black matte dial
Lightly, and evenly aged off-white luminous material.
Screw down crown.
Solid link Oyster bracelet.
36 mm strong steel caseClassic Rolex watch, combines sport and dress features in a way that I don't think any other watch does. One of the best vintage watches of all time.
Though it had later become a classic watch, its origin was that of a "tool" type watch. It actually was developed for explorers, and was used by members of the successful 1953 Everest expedition (see below) as well as other expeditions before and after.
(The Rolex Milgauss, a very rare watch, is another tool watch, developed for a rather narrowly defined scientist, needing to work in areas of high magnetic field strength. The Milgauss could handle it. I'd love a Milgauss, but they're very rare and very expensive.)Dial is easily readable, with large luminous triangle at 12, Arabic numerals and markers. Mercedes style hands, like the Submariner. Earlier models had variations on dial signage, and hands, but the 1016, I believe, always had this appearance. Tritiated luminous material is no longer active.
from.http://alanwatch.homestead.com/explorer.html

Friday, February 23, 2007

Rolex Yacht-Master Review

The Rolex Yacht-Master Reference 16622 is, from many perspectives, a unique and interesting Rolex. When I first saw the watch and tried it on in person, I wasn't impressed. It just didn't seem to grab me, so I never paid it too much attention for several years thereafter. It wasn't until this past year, when several of my online friends started getting the watch that I gave it a second look, and boy am I glad I did
The Yacht-Master is one of Rolex's newer models in their line up, and was first introduced in 1992. However, it wasn't until 1997 that Rolex debuted the Rolesium (Rolex's term for a stainless steel and platinum finish) Yacht-Master, reference 16622. It was the Rolesium configuration which really has caught the public's attention, and risen sharply in popularity. While not in short of supply as the stainless steel Daytona, it would appear that demand is greater than the current supply, and the margin seems to be growing every year.
The Yacht-Master was the first Oyster Professional series watch to feature the Rolex Maxi Dial - so named due to the enlarged markers and thicker hands as compared to the standard issue Oyster Professional watch dials. In this comparison photo, you can see the difference between the markers and hands on the Yacht-Master and on the Sea-Dweller:
The extra surface area on the markers and minute hand means more luminous material can be applied, making for a brighter glow. The Yacht-Master has the best low light visibility of any Rolex I've owned. I have no problem reading the time all the way through a movie at the theater - something I've never been able to do with my other Rolexes. It's widely speculated that Rolex will eventually implement the Maxi Dial on all of the Oyster Professional watches
from.http://www.rolexreferencepage.com/yachtmasterreview.html

Rolex GMT Master II Review




The GMT Master II is my first pilots watch. That’s right – even though the Master II is cosmetically similar to many Rolex dive style watches (like the Submariner and Sea-Dweller) the original GMT Master was conceived as a tool for airline pilots. You see, back in the 1950’s innovations in aviation technology made transatlantic travel a more appealing option than ever before. The airline PAN AM quickly emerged as a leader in transatlantic travel by jet plane. Not surprisingly it was PAN AM pilots that were first afflicted with the phenomenon which became known as “jet lag.” Jet lag affects those who make frequent transitions between time zones – the “internal clock” of the human body has a difficult time playing “catch up.” PAN AM theorized that if pilots had tool for not only tracking the time in their current time zone, but also the time in their “home” time zone, then it would help lessen the effects of jet lag. PAN AM approached Rolex on this idea, and the two companies worked together to create the GMT Master

Now, I’ll be the first to admit that the GMT Master II – especially the “Pepsi bezel” Master II (so named because the red and blue bezel resembles the Pepsi cola logo) isn’t for everyone. The casual Rolex fan would be better served by the more versatile 16610 Submariner, or even the all black bezel version of the Master II. But most Rolex purists prefer the red and blue bezel version which more closely resembles the design and look of the original GMT Master. It also has a look which is very distinctively associated with Rolex. But for most, the bold colors of the red and blue bezel evoke a strong, polar response – either you love it or hate


Cosmetic appeal aside, the GMT Master II is a very functional tool for those who travel between time zones – here’s how it works: Simply set the red arrow “GMT” hand to track the time of your home time zone, but matching it to the corresponding hour on the 24 hr. graduated markings on the bi-directionally rotating bezel. Next, set the “standard” hour hand (the one with the Mercedes symbol) to the time of whatever time zone you’re in currently. As you move between time zones, you can move the “standard” hour hand up or back in hour increments – without actually stopping the movement to do it. The beauty of the GMT Master II functionality is the ability to adjust the time without having to stop the second hand. It is this functionality that separates watches like the Rolex GMT Master II, and the Omega Seamaster GMT from other, lesser functioning watches

from.http://www.rolexreferencepage.com/gmtmaster2review.html


ROLEX DATEJUST


This story begins not with the purchase of my 1984 Rolex Datejust model 16013, but rather with the purchase of my wife’s 69173 Datejust as a wedding gift (we were married just a few months ago on 1/28/06). She absolutely loves the watch, and I love to see her wearing it. She still has a lovely mother of pearl Wittnauer watch which she also loves…but now only sees about once a week wear, if that. Go Rolex!
Now, my wonderful bride has some definite opinions about my watches…from my Yacht-Master, which she really likes, to my Daytona which she thinks is “too busy.” But since getting her Datejust, she’s been wanting me to find a matching men’s model. My recent birthday in April proved to be an excellent excuse…errrr…opportunity to please my wife and add another watch to my collection. Husbands out there…are you taking notes here? J
Admittedly, I have far more experience with contemporary Rolex models than I do vintage. Ironically however, my very first Rolex was a 1970 Oyster Precision. While I no longer have the watch, I did gain an appreciation for how timeless the Rolex design is, and how well constructed their watches are…that vintage OP performed flawlessly. So when I spotted a smokin’ hot deal on a 1984 16013 from a trusted dealer in Singapore, I immediately contacted him and a wire transfer of funds shortly followed (this same fellow sold me my previously mentioned Oyster Precision). It took a bit over a week to arrive from Singapore, but it was well worth the wait. Here’s a photo of the watch sitting in the old style Datejust box